Pity the poor Sylvaner grape! For years it has been condemned to anonymity by the authorities of Alsace, its home region, who considered it incapable of producing wine of Grand cru quality. They went as far as to ban the mention on the Sylvaner label of its provenance if it came from a Grand Cru vineyard.
The only problem with this policy is that Sylvaner is actually a grape capable of some class, especially when it comes from the Zotenberg vineyard, which has always received universal recognition in Alsace. It is in fact the single site that is able to produce truly "Grand" wine. Well, to cut a long story short, the authorities relented last year and are permitting Sylvaner from Zotenberg (but only from Zotenberg), from the 2006 vintage on, to state its origins on the label.
As you have probably surmised by now, this wine comes precisely from Zotenberg, of which Boeckel is by far the largest proprietor. This venerable house has long had a reputation for producing classically dry, unexaggerated Alsace wines at exceptionally moderate prices (a benefit of having owned most of their vineyards for 100-plus years). Their Sylvaner, however, is something special. It has a vinosity and complexity of flavor that, in our experience, can only compare with the top from Franconia. Full-bodied but light on its feet, it sports a beguiling aroma of roasted walnuts and something faintly carnal. Long on the palate, it beautifully matches pork and other white meat dishes, as well as such classic cheeses as Munster.
To order, click here: Bottle ($15.50), Case ($148.80 - 20% off!).
