Gascony is a fabled part of France, occupying a role in that huge country's history somewhat akin to that of the Wild West in America's. Its most deeply entrenched image is undoubtedly that of the Three Musketeers, but those who know and love Gascony adore it for the grandeur of its scenery, the warm-hearted generosity of its people and the gusty savor of its cuisine, in which lamb and duck play a huge part. It is also celebrated as the home of the Armagnac liqueur.
Christian Marou presides over Domaine des Persenades, an estate which has been in his family's possession since 1650. Their main business was always the production of Armagnac, which, like other spirits, is less and less commonly consumed at French tables than it used to. As a result, there has been a striking shift in recent decades toward the production of wines from vines previously dedicated to Armagnac.
This 2006 blend of roughly equal parts Ugni Blanc and Colombard, two classic Armagnac grapes, is a splendid ambassador for the region. Medium-bodied and completely dry, it has a pungent, resinous aroma that speaks unmistakably of south-west France. Completely up to date temperature-controlled winemaking, however, endows the wine also with all the clear, crisp fruitiness that the modern world demands.
With its low alcohol (11.5%), it makes for a good aperitif wine, especially when partnering the cured sausages of the region, while its lively acidity gives it sufficient cut to pair with heartier Gascon-style fare, too.
To order, click here: Bottle ($15.50), Case ($148.80 - 20% off!).
